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Eshaness Lighthouse 

OS Grid Reference: HU205784

 

 The line of magnificent cliffs about 45m high lying just south west of the lighthouse with the nearest routes just 100m from the car park. The routes follow crack lines with good holds and protection. Access by abseil to small platforms at the base of each route. Seriously affected by swell.
 
  Name Grade Rating Description
1 Third Stone from the Sun HVS 5a **** 35m. Climbs the right facing corners to an overhang,  then hanging crack on the wall above, south of abseil
2 The Goblin Cleaver E2 5c *** 35m. Climb the rib and hanging crack then round this with problematic moves to easier ground and final layback
3 Solan E1 5b ** 35m. The hanging flake and cracks. Belay above slime.
4 Achilles Last Stand E1 5b ** 35m. At the top, move left up the easier groove
5 Sunday Morning VS 4c * 35m. Climb the crack and then left up the rib
6 Mary VS 4c * 35m. The wall and right of the rib
7 Scooty Alan HVS 5a **** 40m. Fine jamming crack
8 The Silmaril HVS 5a *** 40m. The crack and aręte
9 Cruel Sea HVS 5a ** 20m. The fine corner crack
10 Pinkerton E1 5b ** 20m. The short corner and awkward roof
11 White Nose VS 4c * 20m. The chimney and corner above the cave
12 Anglachel E1 5a   40m. Climb the groove/corner then the right side of the aręte
13 Anguirel E1 5b * 40m. 22m 5b - groove to ledge, then 18m 5a - wall and groove
14 Not Necessarily Stoned, but Beautiful E1 5c ** 45m. Corner left of the fence
15 Cave Crack E5 6a *** 40m. The sustained overhanging crack in North wall
16 Living the Dream E3 5c ** 40m. Start on the left wall, then up the chimney.
17 Perfect Groove HVS 5a **** 45m. Climb the blank wall for 10m then the crack to the top
18 Near Perfect Arete HVS 5a ** 40m. The aręte and wall above
19 Foy Corner VS 4c *** 45m. The chimney and clean corner to the top
20 Ringil HVS 5a ** 35m. The small corner and crack in the wall. (E1 5b from the sea)
21 Gúthwinë E1 5b * 40m. From hanging belay climb the wall and upper crack
22 Glamdring E1 5b * 40m. From hanging belay right of the aręte, climb right side of the wall
23 Rocking Horse Ridge HVS 4c * 35m. The steep stepped aręte
24 Hanging Crack E1 5a * 35m. The hanging corner and crack above
25 Black Watch VS 4c ** 30m. The right slanting crack line
26 Atlantic City HS ** 35m. The wide corner / chimney
27 Aisha E1 5a * 35m. The bold sweeping aręte
28 Herugrim E1 5b   35m. Climb the wall and move right round overhang
29 Mhairi HS   35m. Climb the grooved rib and wall left of overhangs
30 Aranrúth VS 4c * 35m. Directly up the centre of the large rib
31 Bubblebox S   35m. The only route so far on the large wall opposite to Aran Ruth (see map). The southernmost obvious crack line in the wall.
32 Saandiloo HVS 5a ** 35m. The slab and notch in the roof
33 Tirricks HVS 4c ** 35m. Climb left passing roofs to join the crack
34 Charlie Sheen VS 4c   25m. The crack and corner
35 Charlie 32 HVS 5a   35m. The corner groove and flake
36 Team Specsavers E5 6a * 30m. The crack, roof and hanging groove
37 Swells Up S   25m. The short corner then round into the crack
38 Watching Whales HVS 5b   25m. Awkward move from the cave then easier but bold on the aręte 
39 Overhole VS 4c   25m. The corner left of hole then the layback flake on the main wall
40 Fated Seal HVS 5a   20m. Belay to ab rope right of cave. Then right up the wall and round into the corner.
41 Croft Hoose Stairs HVD * 25m. The most westerly nose has a pleasant stepped ramp